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Photography

Alaska Cruise Photography Tips

By Reviewed by Marin HollowayUpdated 3 min readLast fact checked on .

Alaska presents three specific photographic problems: very bright ice that fools meters, fast moving animals at distance from an unstable platform, and persistent low light in fjords. Solve those three and everything else follows.

The short answer

For Alaska, add half to one stop of positive exposure compensation when shooting ice, use 1/1600 second with continuous autofocus for whales, bring a 70 to 200mm or longer lens, and protect gear with a cheap rain cover. Overcast conditions improve glacial blue and rainforest colour, so grey days are not lost days.

Key points

  • Ice fools light meters. Add half to one stop of positive exposure compensation.
  • Whales need 1/1600 second, continuous autofocus and burst mode.
  • Overcast improves glacial blue and rainforest greens.
  • Include something for scale or a glacier photograph means nothing.
  • Cold halves battery life. Keep a spare in an inside pocket.

Alaska is a difficult place to photograph well and an easy place to photograph badly. The difficulties are specific and solvable.

Problem one: ice fools your meter

A camera meter assumes the average scene is mid grey. Fill the frame with a glacier and the meter tries to render that white ice as grey, underexposing by roughly a stop.

Fix: dial in +0.5 to +1.0 exposure compensation whenever ice dominates the frame. Check the histogram rather than the screen, which is unreliable in bright conditions.

A related point: dense glacial ice reads blue because compression has forced the air out, so it absorbs longer wavelengths. The bluest ice is the freshest and deepest, and it reads bluer under overcast skies than in bright sun. Do not try to correct that blue in post processing. It is what you came for.

Problem two: moving animals from a moving platform

Both you and the subject are moving, and image stabilisation cannot fix subject motion.

Settings for whales and wildlife from a boat:

  • Shutter 1/1600 second or faster
  • Continuous autofocus, with a wide or zone area rather than a single point
  • Burst mode
  • Auto ISO with a ceiling around 3200
  • No polariser. It costs a stop and a half exactly when you need speed

The classic humpback shot is the fluke as the whale sounds, and you get about two seconds. Watch for the arched back. That is the cue, and if you wait for the tail you have missed it.

Problem three: low light in fjords

Fjord walls block direct sun for much of a transit, and Alaska overcast is genuinely dark. Many of the best moments happen at 5:30 am in a north facing fjord.

Fix: be willing to push ISO to 1600 or 3200. Modern sensors handle it and a sharp noisy image beats a clean blurred one. Brace against a deck rail, which buys two or three stops of stability.

Gear that earns its place

ItemWhy
70 to 200mm lensThe workhorse. Covers glaciers, wildlife at moderate range and compressed landscapes
400mm or a teleconverterFor whales, otters, goats and eagles
16 to 35mmFjord corridors, ship decks, wide landscapes
Spare batteriesCold halves working life. Keep one warm in a pocket
Rain coverA cheap sleeve is worth more than any filter here
Microfibre clothConstant lens spray on boat trips
Circular polariserFor wet foliage and water surfaces, not for wildlife
Small travel tripodOnly genuinely useful at College Fjord and in port at dusk

Phone cameras handle landscapes well and wildlife badly. If you are bringing one camera and wildlife matters, bring the long lens.

Subjects and how to approach them

Glaciers

Include something for scale: a tour boat, kayakers, birds, the ship's rail. A glacier photographed alone flattens into an abstract white shape and communicates nothing about size.

Video the calving and photograph the aftermath. Calving is too fast and unpredictable for stills; the picture worth taking is the wave and churned ice immediately after.

Whales

Covered above. One addition: shoot wider than feels right. A tightly cropped fluke with no context is less interesting than a fluke with a mountain range behind it.

Totem poles and rainforest

Overcast is an advantage. Direct sun through a canopy creates blown highlights and heavy shadow that destroy carved detail. Totem Bight in flat light is far better than in sun.

Towns

Early. Get ashore at 7:30 am before the crowds and Skagway or Ketchikan photograph cleanly with long shadows and empty streets. By 10:00 am there are four thousand people in the frame.

The ship

Aft decks at sailaway, and the wake at night. Both are underused and both work.

Timing

In June there is no real golden hour, there is a golden three hours, roughly 8:00 to 11:00 pm and again from 4:00 am. Use it. The best light of an Alaska cruise happens when most passengers are at dinner or asleep.

In September the light is shorter but the air is clearer, which is why many photographers prefer the late season. See best month for an Alaska cruise.

Frequently asked questions

What camera settings should I use for glaciers?
Add half a stop to a full stop of positive exposure compensation, because a frame filled with ice will fool any meter into underexposure and produce grey ice with blocked shadows. Aperture around f/8 gives good depth of field, and keep the shutter above 1/500 second because the ship is never truly still.
What lens do I need for whale watching in Alaska?
200mm is workable and 400mm is considerably better, because most whale activity happens at 100 to 300 metres. A 70 to 200mm zoom with a teleconverter is a practical compromise. Shorter than 200mm and whales become distant specks in the frame.
Does bad weather ruin Alaska cruise photography?
No, and overcast conditions genuinely improve some subjects. Glacial ice reads bluer under cloud than in bright sun, rainforest and totem poles photograph far better in flat light than in harsh sunlight, and mist between islands is the classic Inside Passage image. Only heavy rain on the lens is a real problem, and a cheap rain cover solves it.
How do I stop my camera batteries dying in the cold?
Carry a spare in an inside pocket close to your body. Cold reduces lithium battery capacity temporarily rather than permanently, so a battery that seems dead after an hour on a glacier deck will usually recover once warmed. Rotate two batteries and you will not run out.

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